Six of Portree’s Cafés

As it might come to a surprise, one of the first things I did with my time off from work was find cafés in town. My phone service is quite spotty and unreliable, so I was looking for places to hangout and use their internet for a bit. I’ve come to realize that wifi is not always a given here on Skye, so I’ve added which cafés are study and work-friendly.

Birch, Ratnad na Slignich 

When you think of a café aesthetic, you think of Birch. It sits on a narrow street that consists of a gin shop and distillery, a shop called Starry Skye, and a Japanese and Chinese restaurant. A mural of mountains and a rocky, sea-side cliff is painted right across from the café, a mirror of the scenic views around the island.

I tried my usual drink, the oat iced latte, and it was good, though more bitter and smaller than I expected. I’ve since tried their filter coffee and cold brew. The latter being my favourite from their coffee menu. A notable mention is their creamy chai which, sprinkled with cinnamon, is the perfect beverage if you’re in the mood for autumn. I also had one of their peanut butter brownies that had been recommended to me by many. The treat definitely lived up to the hype.

When I visited Birch the first time, I decided to not bring a book, or sketchbook, or even laptop to write, thinking I would use their internet to check my messages. Unfortunately, they do not have wifi. 

Skyeskyns Portree, The Grn

Smooshed between two pretty gift shops, it’s easy to miss Skyeskyns while strolling through Portree. If you go down its steps, you’ll find a pizza restaurant to your left and the café to your right. Overlooking towering mountains on the other side of Loch Portree, the sheepskin store is probably not where you expected to grab your coffee. They serve good pastries as well. There are two seats indoors by the window, and the others are on their terrace. The owner will offer you a sheepskin blanket to sit on while you sip on your beverage and enjoy the view. 

I was happy to find out that they had wifi, and was able to check my messages and catch up with friends and family. 

Relish, Wentworth Street

Relish might look like a takeaway coffee shop, but you can actually take a seat on their second floor (after ordering and being given a table number) and enjoy a drink or meal. They serve breakfast and lunch. They sell cute pastoral and scenic cards and I also spotted larger paintings for sell by the cash register.

Framed art decorates their walls in their seating area, each with a short description of the painting, the artist’s name, and it’s price. I decided to try out Relish on a day I felt very lazy and before meeting coworkers for drinks, so I opted for, you guessed it, an iced oat latte. It was really good, and pretty, and frothy. 

Unfortunately, they don’t have wifi, either. 

Gasta Port Righ, Viewfield Road

Within the Isle of Skye Candle Co. is Portree’s small movie theatre, the candle shop, and Gasta Port Righ. The restaurant and café is one of the very few places in Portree (and Skye) that is open seven days a week. They serve hot beverages and typical café drinks until 5 p.m. and drinks and dinner until closing time. 

I’ve tried their hot chocolate and iced latte and both were really good. On a different day, I shared a bottle of red wine, Feudo Arancio, and had their brownie—which was melted in the centre and was delicious with the vanilla ice cream it came with. It was a great pair, and a perfect treat after a long week.

Without realizing it, I’ve become a regular. It’s nice seeing the now familiar, friendly staff recognize me and even remember my order. I’ve been coming at least once a week to write. They have good wifi, too.

The Granary, Somerled Square

Pitstop in Portree during our Highlands and Skye tour. November 23, 2022.

Last November, on my Highlands and Isle of Skye tour, we had lunch at The Granary. Smack in the town square, its one of the café/restaurants you’ll probably be drawn to if you’re coming from a tour bus. The restaurant can get quite busy in the middle of the day with tourists. They have good coffee and food, but it’s not much of a sit-down café what with the lineup it usually gets during rushes. They also have a takeaway bakery right next door if you’re looking for something on the go. 

They have wifi, though I haven’t found the nerve to use my laptop to write there. 

Cafe Arriba, Quay Street

Overlooking the harbour, Cafe Arriba’s view is one of the loveliest amongst the cafés. Its eclectic interior is charming and warm. I popped by for a quick lunch and grabbed a smoked salmon and cream cheese bagel, but if I had more time I would definitely give their breakfasts a try. I returned later in the week after the lunch rush and got a table without having to wait in line. It’s more of a brunch spot than sit-down café, but they are okay with people using their laptops. I ordered a cappuccino and a croissant since they don’t serve iced coffees.

They have good wifi.